Saturday, July 5, 2008

When Does 3/4" Equal Two Feet?

When you drop a DL650 V-Strom's suspension 3/4" and finally get both feet on the ground - that's when. I've tipped my Wee over several times and was getting pretty tired of the embarrassment and tipsy slow speed handling. For this modification, we need what are called lowering links...

Lowering links (aka dogbones) change up the geometry of the rear wheel via the pivoting shock mount arm that connects the rear monoshock to the frame. I know, it doesn't make sense to read this so just take a look under your bike and you'll see what's involved. The monoshock is attached to a alloy casting that articulates the monoshock while pivoting on the frame itself. Two flat metal 'dogbones' determine the overall height of the ride based on their overall length. Lengthening the links shortens the frame height, which lowers the bike. It's really just that simple. More than a 3/4" lowering will significantly change this bike's handling and road clearances, so make sure you need more drop before you start messin' around with this important aspect on your V-Strom. This is strictly an at-your-own-risk modification for mechanically-inclined bike owners, so if something isn't clear to you - don't do it!

Didn't know if the cheaper aluminum lowering links that sell for $17 on eBay would be stout enough to replace the steel OEM parts, so I went for a Kevin Baker's nicely finished steel lowering links ($44 shipped) and won't have to worry about it. Murph's mailed 'em out ASAP and they were waiting for me when I returned from a 10-day work week in Missouri.

Rear Suspension Links
Installation is pretty simple - remove two nut (17mm) and bolt (14mm) assemblies and changeout OEM dogbones with the KB's. You will need to create 5-6" of swingarm lift to get the bottom bolt on the KB dogbone started in the shock arm - I employed a square-edged shovel under the limp rear tire to leverage the swingarm up. Wasn't the swiftest approach but in a one-man situation it did the trick. A block and 2X4 would be the simplest way to do it but you'll figure something out when you get to that point. Regreasing the shock arm bearings and putting some blue removable LockTight on the link mounting nuts are two more smart details in this part changeout. Other than that it's a cakewalk...

Front Fork
To complement the geometry change in the rear suspension, a drop of the tripletree in the front forks is needed. This is even easier - just loosen the three 10mm bolts on each side and retighten finger tight. Take a rubber hammer and firmly strike the middle portion of the handlebars to slowly move the top tripletree downward. Establish a visual starting point of the shock tubes and stop when you get to within 5/8"-3/4" of the shock tube showing above the tripletree. DO NOT exceed 3/4" or you risk slamming the top of the shock tube into the lower tripletree!! Take your time, hammer and measure frequently, and it'll go very smoothly. Tighten all the 10mm bolts up as tight as you can get them by hand.

So, what's it like to ride 3/4" lower on a Wee? Awesome! At 5'10" with a 32" inseam, I can easily prop this beast up at a redlight now for safer braking to a standstill and takeoffs in traffic. With the CG (center of gravity) closer to the ground, there's no more tipsy balancing act on uneven surfaces. No more nervous slow speed maneuvers and turnarounds. Clearance is more than adequate for the street and the center stand and kickstand continue to operate just fine too - a greater drop than this will necessitate mods that you won't want to have to make.

On the road, the Wee is starting to handle more like a sportbike! Not quite an SV clone, of course, but it's a much more manageable adventure touring setup than what came out of the factory.

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